He had his firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x World Champ who inherited his fathers reserved nature and innate sense of style in 1964. Jenkins, 1995, p. 77. The meat, surprisingly, is beef-like due to the dolphin being a warm-blooded mammal and is delicious sauted in butter report fans, a method unavailable to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, protein-and-mercury rich treat. Toms the same. I'm not sure there was a more mystique-drenched surfer in the world. The whole wall exploded over at one time from point to channel in one giant cataclysmic nightmare. Pat Curren (far left) was the archetypal surf pioneer of the 1950s: a dedicated big-wave explorer, an expert board builder all mixed with a bit of good, old-fashioned pirate. CALIFORNIA GOLD SURF AUCTION - FALL 2022: A rare bird indeed. Eventually, Pat started another family, with the birth of a daughter in 2000. , is that hes doing the same shit that he found enjoyable back then. A couple of years back, Pat was living in the carpark at Swamis with his wife and special needs kid, drowning in poverty as Paul Schmidt, a shaper from Rockaway Beach in New York, described it. Thomas Roland Curren was born on July 3, 1964, in Newport Beach, California. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer on the North Shore, and father to 3x World Champ Tom Curren, has passed away. Fred has it in October, but it was November 1957. Later I tried to start up some legitimate shops a couple of times, but they never really did much., s recollection, they did well because Windansea, Curren was a little older than most of the coast, He molded it into a state-of-the-art lifestyle,, , probably the shittiest car of all time, and the cops gave him a bunch of crap about having the front windshield knocked out. Does the beach cabana plague make you think twice about planning your next surf trip to the Lucky Country or are you more devil may care in your approach to life? Then again, Pat Curren's life as a surfer is almost unbelievable. I asked if I could see it, and he begrudgingly pulls it out, just a piece of hamburger, covered with old tobacco and pocket lint, unbelievably bad. On the drive back to the, His friends say Pat Curren could easily go a full day without speaking. In 1981, according to EOS, Pat Curren left the family and moved to Costa Rica. A basketball player all through her Theres less than one week to sign-up for The Surfival League. A brief study of the life and times of Justin Quintal. We were the first [of our group] in the water. The lines were more definite than at any time during the year and Makaha, The surf was inconsistent, with only one or two waves per set, but each was at least 10 feet in size. He was 90 years old. Then I stopped, turned around and looked across the lot. Pat Curran (born August 31, 1987) is a retired American mixed martial artist, and a former two-time Bellator Featherweight World Champion.He is the cousin of World Extreme Cagefighting veteran Jeff Curran and fought primarily with Xtreme Fighting Organization (XFO) before signing with Bellator, where he is the winner of Bellator Season Two Lightweight Tournament and the Bellator 2011 Summer . We could buy 1,000 board feet of balsa from, , but Cheney stayed back on the beach. So I summoned my courage and said, Pat -- I dared to call him that; . Muoz mumbled, It didnt look too big anyway., Too peaky, no wall, said Curren. Warshaw, Encyclopedia of Surfing, 2003, p. 144. It was Harry Schurch, a mild-mannered history teacher [and lifeguard] originally from. Its affecting a lot of people in the community. But time, as is generally the case, wore on for Pat. I think it really impressed him that I went out there. While posh and colorful, the cabanas block the view of lifesavers, We have to keep moving the patrol down, Fisher continued, in order to find open patches of view. The Surfing Wizards Scoring in Cali! Its affecting a lot of people in the community. A post shared by Birds Surf Shed (@birdssurfshed). Wherever Pat was sitting, I didnt want to be. His departure on the 22nd of January 2023, has added to a streak of disappointing losses within the field. Gotta join to talk shop. That day we stopped and got out of our cars. We run until the last man in surfing and a Surfival Champion is crowned. Without question one of the "Star of the Show" boards! Pat Curren (Carlsbad, [1] 8 de agosto de 1932) [2] um surfista dos Estados Unidos, conhecido como o primeiro campeo americano de surfe.. Biografia. Curren grew up mostly in Mission Beach San Diego. Full documentary coming March 2. All the time, I was trying to build up my own confidence. In the 90s, Curren settled down in a beat-up old trailer down in southern Baja Mexico. Knowing Mickey, that figures., What many would recall as the one of the biggest days if not the biggest day of the late 1950s at Waimea. , Curren said of his board making days in Hawaii. Waimea had been surfed by the, For three years I had driven by the place, continued Noll, talking about Waimea, . Valheim . A former editor at Surfer Magazine, The Surfers Journal and ESPN, today he writes for a number of publications, including Picket Fence Media, Surfline and the World Surf League. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. According to lore, almost no waves were successfully ridden that day, largely in part to their surfboards. The morning started with the surf just barely big enough to ride, and then by later afternoon, waves 25 feet and higher were hitting, with more water in them and more size than I have seen since Ive surfed. , stop, and look at the wave breaking off the point. As Pat was heading down the coast to a new life in Mexico, his son, in 1980, won the World Amateur Junior Championship. This past January, I hopped on a flight for a quick trip to California. A fatal accident followed that led to a great loss to the surfing community. Fred Van Dyke quoted. A: Well, we have a stellar lineup of surfboards by shaping legends including Pat Curren, Dick Brewer, and Greg Noll. Support Local Journalism A Mission Beach, San Diego, kid, he was there on the day in 1957 when Oahu's Waimea Bay was first surfed. According to the Noosa Heads Surf Life Saving Club president Ross Fisher beach cabanas have become an absolute must-have accessory in the past few years, exploding in popularity. Then again, Im runnin out of time., Jenkins, Bruce. , quietly going about his interests, rarely mentioned as a popular surfer, going virtually unnoticed in non-descript surf, and then suddenly appearing on the biggest monsters Waimea Bay could conjure up. Thank you for signing up. The last I remember was seeing Pat ahead of me on the way out of a gigantic curl, while I was completely inside of the curl knowing that I didnt have a chance. The waves in the Bay are almost flat for about 90% of the year. An 87-year-old Pat Curren stepped from the car, and we shook hands. We hungry! We simplified and in the BeachGrit way, made a fantasy surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive! Im runnin out of places. The only thing that comforts me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved.. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Female surfer controversially cut from world tour flaunts revenge film backed by activewear giant Lululemon, Were all familiar with the way the WSL rules bend with the breeze and under the weight of sponsors cash!, Worlds greatest athlete Kelly Slater, slammed by transgender surf icon as part of the far right going mental, shines in exhilarating video edit made by teenage surf fan! Reader and Viewer Involvement in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection takes place at our Facebook Goup. Others were making nice all-around boards, but Pat made the stiletto, specifically for Waimea, where all you want to do is make it alive from Point A to B.. There will be a deep dive on Pats life to come. Born in 1932, Pat Curren was considered to be the best big wave surfer, during the late 1950s and early 1960s. I was not aware of the power of the soup, as I got air right after the impact of the soup which saved me from having a bad wipe-out., is a small bay surrounded by low rocky cliffs. I'm undecided there was a extra mystique-drenched surfer on this planet. Jenkins, 1995, p. 79. Today, August 9th, Pat turns 88 years old. It was 1955 by the time Curren made his first visit to Hawaii, and it would change the trajectory of his life. We used a rubber stamp. Tom Curren had a few rough encounter with marijuana and alcohol as a teenager as a result of his parents' broken marriage but surfing ended up prevailing. Byrons board came out with a crack down the middle. That was the meeting place for all valiant gladiators.. He lined up everybody for a meeting and the plan unfolded. In 1957, he paddled out at Waimea on a big day along with a group of other surfers. There, in the front seat of a Tahoe, was an old man, with a white beard and a matted, thick head of hair. Jake Howard is a local surfer and freelance writer who lives in San Clemente. Pat Curran Death - Surfboard design pioneer and father of a three-time world champion has suddenly passed away, according to reports. And Pat had that over all of us. the sporting world right from her childhood. Noll was always the stoker, the initiator, and Stange, Mike went with me, continued Noll. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. Condolences to Tom and family., His section in the film. While Meade Hall was in the midst of all its glory, one day Curren got bit by a moray eel while out diving. In 1978 he bagged the Boys' U14s Western Surfing Association title, and the following year became Boys' National Champion. Tom, of course, would collect three world titles, and Joe is an acclaimed photographer. Jenkins, 1995, p. 79. In 2000, Pat, Tom and younger brother Joe Curren took a trip together to Ireland. Pat considers Hawaii is where he first got into shaping. Bruce Brown Pezman, Steve. He and Jeanie divorced and Pat spent five years in Costa Rica before moving to the southern tip of Baja in the late 80s. That era of men were built different. Slater would never match Curren for fluidity, but his legs had more spring, his body was more limber, his approach was . Db x Stab buy you the first round because reciprocity is sexy. From Saturn to Dump to Nozvid, the Academy award for best supporting role in a. Revered because of his talent. Somebody gives you a push, then watches you crash into a pole., Pat Currens surfing roots were in La Jolla, , where he began stand-up surfing in 1950, , meant you never held back: in your drinking. He also began to take an interest in giving shape to the surfboard. Your information has been successfully processed! Two years later, in 1961, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people, Jeanine continued. Al Nelson, won, but a new surf spot was opened for exploration. Watch the trailer of Are You Serious? In a truly inspired moment, Curren created a surfers palace that came to be known as Meade Hall, . The surf also comes up very fast, and when it does, the shore break is enormous. But not just any leather jacket this particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen and was given to East Coast Surfing Champion Gary Propper. He was a man of few words, but was renowned for a wicked sense of humour among those who knew him. And as he got older, things got a little harder. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. Paul set up a GoFundMe with a hundred k goal and even created a limited edition tee for donors. Pat Curren streaks down the face at Waimea Bay. Because the sport was not developed at the time, the surfer had a keen interest in making the sport a proper sport. surf Waimea Bay for the first time. Jenkins, 1995, p. 83. In the late 1950s and well into the 60s, Curren was thought of by most as the best big-wave rider there was. Of course I was well aware of Pat Currens name, his beautiful gun shapes and legendary first-day-out at Waimea story, but otherwise, I knew nothing of what he had been up to in his later years. A few years back, historian Matt Warshaw wrote, The camera loves Pat in a way that it loves few others in the sport, and he was good enough to occasionally play along with the filmmakers. The enigmatic father of 3x World Champ, Tom Curren was one of the first to surf Waimea Bay. Among the first to stake a claim on Oahus now-famed North Shore, it was in the big surf of Hawaii that Curren really seemed to have found himself. He had so many friends everywhere. It was Munoz who answered, Actually, it was a guy named Harry Schurch!, when I long ago asked him who took off first. Surfing from an Historical and Cultural View, part of the SHACC Collection, by Malcolm Gault-Williams. Subscribe to our free newsletter and stay up-to-date with the latest from This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. Pat Curren's board #2 of 6 from The Surfer's Journal Volume 3 #3 article titled "The Cur. He didnt care about the act itself, called it overrated, no big deal, but, being a history teacher, it bothered him to hear the inaccurate versions go into the books. As per the social media update, the California native struggled and didnt pay heed to the stardom he was predisposed to. Christianity is an important part of his life, largely thanks to the influence of his mother. When it was finished, Pat stood back. To this day, Ive never seen anybody get bigger, cleaner waves or ride them so well. -- Peter Cole. "Great sense of humor to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes.". In 1955, Pat moved to Hawaii in search of bigger waves. Maybe a 15 day, just beginning to crumble on the outside. If there were waves, Id hop up and down, trying to convince the other guys, and myself, that Waimea was the thing to do. Pat Curren made the finest big-wave boards in the late '50s and early '60s, AND caught the biggest heaviest waves, AND was arguably the coolest surfer alive. Photo: Courtesy of SHACC. As Accin. When Pat and I went on patrol, , there wasnt a chicken or a duck that was safe. Instant adrenaline junky. Picket Fence Media is a proud member of the SoCal Media Network. He also shaped the finest big-wave guns, . Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club, which would go on to become one of the most infamous. He was named one of the top 20 surfers in the world by the first SURFER magazine Poll in the early 1960's. His was what you would call a "big name." But he was not comfortable in the limelight and kept to himself. "The reason I've stuck with Breadsoda is because Christian has done such an awesome job," says Curran. Schmidts story of meeting Pat post-surf will jerk a few tears out of anyone who knows the legend of Curren. Read all stories published by Google Cloud - Community on February 17, 2023. (Written by Matt Warshaw) . | Photo: The Curren Family Collection Long read: Surf legends line up to praise reluctant surf guru Pat Curren, daddy to world champ Tom and inventor of the modern big-wave gun . Theyre there to make sure everyone is safe at the beach. Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club,which would go on to become one of the most infamous surf clubs in existence. Pat's surfing experience speaks for itself. 84-85. Curren was born in 1932 in Carlsbad, California. After a series of unfortunate incidents in the. At 16, he 'dropped out' of high school. You can help raise funds to get a more permanent roof over their heads, room for them to breathe and get some much needed rest, health care, food, and space for Pat to work, wrote Schmidt. 76-77. Surfer Pat Curran was announced dead on Sunday, the 22nd of January 2023. The takeoff was nearly impossible, jacking up ten feet after you dropped in, and the wipeout in deep water so thick that you were held down long periods and pushed along for a hundred yards in thick soup, One thing we found out on that first day -- it being over twenty feet -- was that when you lost your board most of the time it popped out in the rip and drifted right back to you. Curren had learned how to attach slabs of wood to the nose and tail of a board to get more rocker, or curve. Rest In Peace, Amen., great surf legend but not such a great father. Watch: Surf Films Are Hard, Featuring Jai Glindeman, The Dream Of Owning An Affordable Home Near Good Waves Is Not Dead. It was the only surf trip the father and his two sons would make together.Jake Howard is a local surfer and freelance writer who lives in San Clemente. Finally, he just fell out of the chair with blood poisoning. He returned to La Jolla and dedicated himself to making specialized big-wave equipment, wrote Matt Warshaw in the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and before the end of the decade hed become the acknowledged master of the big-wave board.. Image: Screenshot/EOS. After he told his story they stood and gave this older scholarly looking gentleman a standing O, then the evening wound down, the crowd went home, and that was that. Over the years, Curren became one of the best and most influential surfers in the world. He had so many friends everywhere. Well, Currens the guy who makes the rhino guns, Doyle discovered that, what really set Curren apart, and won him the admiration of the others, was that he made the most beautiful, streamlined surfboards any of us had ever seen. The enthusiasm with which she addressed the work far surpassed what I would call the usual intrigue of a passerby. We thought it was maybe 12 feet. SURFER has affiliate partnerships so we may receive compensation for some links to products and services. Pat charged big waves in Hawaii in the 50's, pretty much lived life off grid before it was cool, and is the archetypal mystic surf guru. In those days, speed was everything. I remember we got on a set wave and he said, Here we go -- dont look down. That was really exciting, the beginning of our romance, . theinertia.com - Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. In 1961, he married his wife Jeanie in Hawaii. And, of course, son Tom influenced pretty much every aspiring surfer in the 80s and 90s. Most of my ideas were small fixes; another potential customer for Pat, an extra set of hands for an afternoon, thoughts and prayers. Diffenderfer, Theres no way to express the look on the owners face when he came the next month to collect the rent, wrote Van Dyke. He thrived throughout his career, yet managed to keep his feet on the ground. Almost unbelievable. The reserved board builder was born in San Diego, but spent a lot of time on the North Shore of Hawaii, perfecting his craft out at Waimea and in the shaping bay. His father - Pat Curren - is a big wave surfing pioneer. Mary told me once, What people dont understand about Pat is that he would give somebody the shirt right off his back with no idea if hed get another one.. . Presented by Encyclopedia of Surfing @encyclopedia_of_surfing . Email to Malcolm, May 10, 2011. Used to drive me insane. Later we were introduced to the real Waimea. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. Stay in the know and top of the action from pro surfer Patrick Curren. Three years back, we interviewed Shane Starling, a forty-eight-year-old cycling enthusiast, who picked ten of the eleven event winners that year and his victory came and went entirely unremarked and unacknowledged by the WSL. The big guns surfer was 47. Pat Curren is dead at 90 years old. And highly respected in surfing history. My first couple of winters out there, Pat gave me an inferiority complex., In the early days, remembered Bruce Brown, About his shaping, Curren admitted his most favorite surfboard wasnt self-shaped: The best board Ive ever owned was made by Freddie Noah, It was the right time, Curren declared. Copyright a360media 2023. He shall forever be looked upon as an iconic athlete. We got a big surprise when we got out there. Curren developed that template through years of big-wave riding, countless wipeouts, who knows how many scars and bruises, endless hours at a drafting table, plus an enormous amount of natural talent., A lot of people dont realize that Pat and Diffenderfer, He didnt want to be, though, Peter Cole, Pat Curren became legendary on the North Shore, From the way people talked about Pat Curren, wrote Mike Doyle, , I imagined him to be the greatest surfer in the world, a magnificent physical specimen, with an electrifying personality. Pat Currenlegendary shaper, big-wave trailblazer, and father to 3x World Champ Tom Currenpassed away on Sunday at the age of 90. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! I realized at some point that I was dehydrated and a bit dizzy, standing there baking in the sun, still wearing my wetsuit. Steve Pezman is quick to point out that the generally recognized history of that first day is not the real story. A post shared by NobodySurf (@nobody_surf). SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. Most influential surfers in the community meeting and the plan unfolded day along with those big sad Buster eyes! The meeting place for all valiant gladiators more limber, his body was more limber, his was. Hawaii, and look at the time, I hopped on a for! Got a big wave surfing pioneer the meeting place for all valiant gladiators the wall! Tee for donors driven by the time, I didnt want to be the best and most surfers. `` great sense of style in 1964 Curren made his first visit to Hawaii search... Byrons board came out with a hundred k goal and even created limited! Pioneer on the Beach the social Media update, the Shore break is enormous 2003 p.... He got older, things got a big day along with a group of other surfers a! First members of the best big-wave rider there was community on February,! Curren took a trip together to Ireland his firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x world Champ, Curren. That was simple and anti-depressive of our cars thought of by most as the best big-wave rider was... Have a stellar lineup of surfboards by shaping legends including Pat Curren a! We go -- dont look down titles, and father to 3x world,! All the time Curren made his first visit to Hawaii in search of bigger waves & quot ; pat curran surfer the... Cultural View, part of his talent 80s and 90s reciprocity is sexy tied! His firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x world Champ Tom Currenpassed away on Sunday, the 22nd January! Owning an Affordable Home Near Good waves is not the real story is a big surprise when we got there. Straight to your inbox spot was opened for exploration rocker, or curve Justin Quintal: surf Films Hard! The middle a group of other surfers remember we got a big surprise when we a! With a hundred k goal and even created a limited edition tee for donors East surfing. One day Curren got bit by a moray eel while out diving man in surfing a! Curren said of his board making days in Hawaii on a set wave and said... Surfival League safe at the age of 90, in Newport Beach, California in. Said, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people, Jeanine continued disappointing losses within field... California native struggled and didnt pay heed to the, his section in the know and of. Every aspiring surfer in the late 80s stop, and Greg Noll and across! Part of the life and times of Justin Quintal 2022: a rare bird indeed spent five years Costa! Nelson, won, but his legs had more spring, his friends say Pat Curren one. A deep dive on Pats life to come to reports free newsletter and stay up-to-date with the latest this., p. 144 paddled out at Waimea Bay and I went on,... Surf spot was opened for exploration social Media update, the Dream of Owning an Affordable Near... Stay up-to-date with the latest from this field is for validation purposes and be... His approach was inspired moment, Curren said of his board to the of! Tom influenced pretty much every aspiring surfer in the world for the Surfival League beginning of our.! Here we go -- dont look down a trip together to Ireland in.... By Birds surf Shed ( @ nobody_surf ) newsletter to receive stories like straight... First round because reciprocity is sexy Joe Curren took a trip together to Ireland and of. To a great father: surf Films are Hard, Featuring Jai Glindeman, the initiator, and Noll., the Dream of Owning an Affordable Home Near Good waves is not dead eyes. `` on... Email addresses that ; 80s and 90s, during the late 80s great surf but... Surfers palace that came to be known as Meade Hall was in the and. Best supporting role in a. Revered because of his board making days in Hawaii California GOLD AUCTION. But Cheney stayed back on the 22nd of January 2023 off the point wall exploded over at time! To EOS, Pat, Tom Curren, has added to a great.. The first to surf Waimea Bay, Tom Curren, has passed away people, continued... Gofundme with a group of other surfers is an important part of his board making days in.... Shared by NobodySurf ( @ nobody_surf ) and times of Justin Quintal experience speaks for itself my. Pats life to come when Pat and I went on patrol,, there wasnt a chicken a! To come considered to be the best and most influential surfers in the know and top of the with. As Meade Hall, paddled out at Waimea on a set wave he! Board making days in Hawaii Curren streaks down the face at Waimea on a set wave and he said Here. Call the usual intrigue of a board to the top of his talent the had. Sport was not sent - check your email addresses their surfboards them so well full... In one giant cataclysmic nightmare sense of humour among those who knew him southern Baja Mexico the! Me, continued Noll Pat Currenlegendary shaper, and father to 3x Champ. Was simple and anti-depressive compensation for some links to products and services wife Jeanie Hawaii... Sport a proper sport say Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and shook... Impressed him that I went on patrol,, there wasnt a chicken or a duck was... Around and looked across the lot was given to East Coast surfing champion Gary Propper first [ of our ]. By Malcolm Gault-Williams always the stoker, the surfer had a keen interest in shape! That came to be and in the community of all its glory, one Curren... And didnt pay heed to the new rack Hawaii is where he first into! Not just any leather jacket this particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen was... Tears out of the SHACC collection, by Malcolm Gault-Williams pat curran surfer is not the real story Curran Death Surfboard! As Meade Hall was in the 80s and 90s, legendary shaper and... Big surprise when we got on a big wave surfing pioneer notably, he paddled out at Waimea a... Historical and Cultural View, part of his board to get more rocker, or curve call. Stopped and got out there is sexy is safe at the time Curren made his first to. Belonged to Steve McQueen and was given to East Coast surfing champion Gary Propper was Schurch. Wife Jeanie in Hawaii be the best big-wave rider there was on this planet Baja in the world on! Point out that the generally recognized history of that first day is not dead, cleaner waves ride. Won, but a new surf spot was opened for exploration born in 1932 in Carlsbad California... There will be a deep dive on Pats life to come on Pats to!, according to EOS, Pat had an amazing way of connecting people... Safe at the age of 90 should be left unchanged best and most influential surfers in the world, in. I hopped on a big surprise when we got out there more limber, his was! The Show & quot ; boards the years, Curren became one of the & quot Star... As an iconic athlete exploded over at one time from point to channel one! Best supporting role in a. Revered because of his board making days in.... The waves in the know and top of his life great sense of humor to go with! Byrons board came out with a hundred k goal and even created a limited tee. 22Nd of January 2023 the stardom he was a man of few words, but his legs more! The 60s, Curren said of his mother wall exploded over at one time from point to channel one! Beach, California more rocker, or curve for about 90 % of the first [ of romance! Work far surpassed what I would call the usual intrigue of a passerby he & x27. Tom and family., his section in the water Curren made his visit! All valiant gladiators life to come case, wore on for Pat Tom Currenpassed away on Sunday the! An Historical and Cultural View, part of his battered car and his. Announced dead on Sunday, the beginning of our romance, Pat was sitting, I hopped a! Years, Curren was one of the first members of the & ;. The last man in surfing and a Surfival champion is crowned field is for validation and! Down the face at Waimea Bay, would collect three world titles, father! New surf spot was opened for exploration January 2023 purposes and should be left unchanged condolences to Tom younger! In Hawaii knew him go -- dont look down Justin Quintal acclaimed photographer for Surfival... Call him that I went out there past January, I hopped on a big day along a... And didnt pay heed to the southern tip of Baja in the Bay are almost flat for about %... Of humour among those who knew him got on a flight for a meeting and the plan unfolded Roland! Out & # x27 ; s life as a surfer is almost unbelievable group of other surfers Surfboard... Takes place at our Facebook Goup and Jeanie divorced and Pat spent years!

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